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Alloy 910 Nylon 3D Printer Filament|2.85mm

Alloy 910 Nylon 3D Printer Filament|2.85mm
$49.95$36.95
Item#:
4139
Availability:
Out of Stock ;(

QTY
This 3D Filament is no longer available from the manufacturer ;(

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3D Printer Filament Made in the USAArtfully Crafted 3D Printer Filament
Made in Beautiful Springfield, MO USA - We Have Made & Sold Over 500,000lbs of 3D Printer Filament & Counting! Get your share, support the movement and 3D Print American today! (click the US Flag to learn more!)

Alloy 910 Nylon 3D Printer Filament|2.85mm
Alloy 910 is a measurable advancement in 3D Printing materials technology from taulman3D. taulman Alloy 910 is the combined effort of chemical companies, extrusion manufactures and taulman3D to specifically develop a single material to meet as many high performance 3D Printing needs as possible. With a combined tensile strength higher than the strongest co-polyesters, the durability of Nylons, a shrinkage factor that rivals our t-glase, a vast range of chemical resistance and a 95C working range, you now have one solution easily printable at 245C.

Specifications:

Tensile Strength = 8,100PSI +

Modulus PSI = 72,932

Max Elongation at break = 31%

Print Temperature = 245C

Nozzle size = Any - There are no particulates or additives in Alloy 910

Tg = 90C

Print Bed =

Cold = BuildTak with coat of PVA

Hot = Glass heated to 45C with coat of PVA

(PVA is 50% water and 50% "Elmers Glue All")

Shrinkage = 0.0031 in/in

Transmission = 50%

Color = Subtle Amber - May be dyed with acid based dyes.

Printing taulman3D Materials:

NOTE: With the exception of our In-PLA brand PLA material, users should turn "OFF" any fans that blow on the printed part
unless it's a very small part of less than 10mm sqr. This holds especially true for any units that use a MakerB ot style of extruder and hot-end, like the MK series. Also, a major issue we see with this type of extruder is that far too much of the Extruder cooling Fan Air is blowing on the Aluminum Heater Block. We strongly urge users to ensure the Heater Block is isolated from moving air by blocking a portion of the fan, or taping off the heater block with several full wraps of Kapton Tape.

Alloy 910

  • Print temp = 245C - 250C
  • Nozzle = any size
  • Print speed = equivalent to ABS
  • Retraction = 1mm/.1mm nozzle or fop a .5mm nozzle = 5mm
  • Print bed = Hot = Glass heated to 45C with coat of PVA
  • Cold = BuildTak with coat of PVA

t-glase - all colors

  • Print temp = 238C - 245C
  • Nozzle = any size
  • Print speed = ABS speeds
  • Retraction = .5mm/.1mm nozzle or fop a .5mm nozzle = 2.5mm
  • Print bed = Hot = Glass heated to 45C with coat of PVA

Nylon 645

  • Print temp = 245C - 255C
  • Nozzle = any size
  • Print speed = 80% of ABS speeds
  • Retraction = 1mm/.1mm nozzle or fop a .5mm nozzle = 5mm
  • Print bed = Hot = Glass heated to 45C with coat of PVA

BluPrint

  • Print temp = 265C - 270C
  • Nozzle = any size
  • Print speed = ABS speeds = 50%
  • Retraction = .5mm/.1mm nozzle or fop a .5mm nozzle = 2.5mm
  • Print bed = Hot = Glass heated to 95C
  • Cold = Clean BuildTak or PEI

Nylon 618

  • Print temp = 245C - 260C
  • Nozzle = any size
  • Print speed = 80% of ABS speeds
  • Retraction = 1mm/.1mm nozzle or fop a .5mm nozzle = 5mm
  • Print bed = Hot = Glass heated to 55C with coat of 100% PVA
  • Cold = Garolite Board

Nylon Bridge

  • Print temp = 245C - 265C
  • Nozzle = any size
  • Print speed = 80% of ABS speeds
  • Retraction = 1mm/.1mm nozzle or fop a .5mm nozzle = 5mm
  • Print bed = Hot = Glass heated to 45C with coat of PVA

Nylon 230

  • Print temp = 225C - 235C
  • Nozzle = any size
  • Print speed = 80% of ABS speeds
  • Retraction = 1mm/.1mm nozzle or fop a .5mm nozzle = 5mm
  • Print bed = Hot = Glass heated to 45C with coat of PVA
  • Cold = BuildTak with coat of PVA

In-PLA brand PLA

  • Print temp = 207C - 212C
  • Nozzle = any size
  • Print speed = ABS speeds
  • Retraction = .5mm/.1mm nozzle or fop a .5mm nozzle = 2.5mm
  • Print bed = Hot = Glass heated to 70C

PCTPE

  • Print temp = 230C - 238C
  • Nozzle = any size
  • Print speed = 80% of ABS speeds
  • Retraction = 1mm/.1mm nozzle or fop a .5mm nozzle = 5mm
  • Print bed = Hot = Glass heated to 40C with coat of PVA
  • Cold = BuildTak with coat of PVA

3D Printing Facts, Tips, Tricks & Other Bottom of the Page Nuggets
from MakerGeeks.com

What Temperature to 3D Print your Filament at?

While each 3D Printer is different and you will need to play around with the temps to get the best print here are some starter temps for you; these are all temperature profiles that are verified and confirmed print temps on the MakerGeeks.com 3D Printers (9 different machines from pre-built D3 and D4 to our own DIY custom Reprap printers) with the actual filament we sell to you... so they will get you 99% of the way there!

210c-230c
210c-230c
230c - 235c
250c

175c - Smooth
210c - Rough

165c (light colored wood)
210c (very dark colored wood)
240c - 265c
260c
210c
265c

How do I get my filament to stick and STAY stuck?

This one is a multi-faceted answer but here are the basics:

  1. Your print bed has to be level!! I mean, spend some time on this one... if it isn't level like a... well... like something that's really level - then your print won't stick and it won't come out looking right.
  2. Next... CLEAN, CLEAN, then RE CLEAN, have a sandwich and a soda-pop and then CLEAN again... use acetone and a lint free towel to make sure your print surface is clean and free from oils and dirt.
  3. If you are having a hard time printing on glass try using some Kapton tape as that will give you a little better stick
  4. If you have a heated print surface... TURN IT ON!! Even when the filament used might not call for it, I always turn on my heat bed (who doesn't like a warm bed!!); even if it's just 40c it will really help. For PLA normally you'll want about 60c and for ABS you'll want 110c
  5. For ABS 3D Printing room temperature really matters... you need to keep your entire build warm; so if you can't print out in a warm room try putting a box over the printer to keep that build area as warm as possible.
  6. Try making "ABS Juice" - just add some scrap ABS filament to a bottle of acetone and let it dissolve and then use that to clean your print surface as normal; the dissolved ABS will give your printer extra STICK OR you can use "Aqua-Net Super Hold" hair spray (must be this brand to work right)... just clean your board as always and then lightly spray the Aqua-Net on the print board and print away (this method is my favorite as it seems to work best for me!)
  7. KEEP trying!! You'll get it and once you do have it dialed in then you have it forever... each printer is different; make sure you make notes of what works and what doesn't for each filament you use and each printer you have. So, in the future when you want to print out that EPIC "Yogi Bear" figurine in MakerGeeks.com Blue you know what to set up your GCODE for.

What is the main differences between PLA and ABS 3D Printer Filament?

The main difference between PLA filament and ABS filament is that ABS is produced from fossil fuels and PLA is derived from biological resources, which makes PLA plastic biodegradable. Check out this 3D Printing Filament Impact Test -- PLA vs ABS vs PETG vs Sledgehammer (click here to watch the videos)!! When it comes to 3D printing the key differences between ABS and PLA are:

  • PLA is a rigid liquid and ABS is a crystallized liquid, meaning that when heated ABS transits slowly from a gel to liquid and PLA transits direct from solid to liquid.
  • ABS is more flexible and PLA is more solid, meaning when stressed PLA will snap sooner.
  • PLA is more glossy looking consumable than ABS (see photos when selecting your material).�

Wow, you have a 1kg spool of filament... SO What! How much actual filament is that??

Big question of the day is... how long is a spool of 3D Printing Filament!? Hummmmm, I think even Blinky the wise old MakerGeeks.com owl might have a hard time with that question but never fear... we have the answer!!

1/kg Spool

PLA 1.75mm

PLA 3mm

ABS 1.75mm

ABS 3mm

302,000.00mm

120,192.30mm

245,000.00mm

147,732.30mm


... and what does that mean to me and you!! Well, check this out... if you are printing with 3.00mm filament for a iPhone case you need about 2,700mm of filament; for a EPIC Starship Enterprize Model you'll need about 12,000mm of 3D Filament and for a full Kossel 3D Printer Kit we normally use about 50,000mm of filament. Another way to look at it according to MakerBot is that 1 spool of 3D Filament produces about 392 full sized chess pieces. Whoa... that's a lot of chess!!

 


Don't forget... Print Happy @ MakerGeeks.com
Now, go tell 5 friends and 3 total strangers that MakerGeeks.com is beyond EPIC!!! (thank you)

3D Printing Filament MSDS Sheets

Maker Geeks Manufacturing, Inc. is located in beautiful Springfield, MO and is one of the first and only large scale producers of 3D printer filament in the USA ....we want to make sure you have all the data you need to safely use our products. A lot of time and love go into each spool that our tradesmen make here at our plant and we hope you enjoy  and make something really cool with your new Maker Filament!!

 
   

Maker Series ABS 3D Printer Filament - MSDS (click here for PDF)

   

Maker Series PLA 3D Printer Filament - MSDS (click here for PDF)

   

Maker Series PETG 3D Printer Filament - MSDS (click here for PDF)

   

Crystal Series PLA 3D Printer Filament - MSDS (click here for PDF)

   

Crystal Series PETG 3D Printer Filament - MSDS (click here for PDF)

 
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Maker Geeks Manufacturing Has Made & Sold over 500,000lbs of 3D Printer Filament and Counting - Get your share today!