Duplicator 4X|3D Printer in Wood Cover

Duplicator 4X|3D Printer in Wood Cover
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Duplicator 4X|3D Printer in Wood CoverDuplicator 4X|3D Printer in Wood Cover

Why buy your 3D Printer from MakerGeeks.com

You might want to think twice before you order that 3D printer from China or off eBay; with no warranty, no support after the sale and the cost of shipping and import taxes that "super deal" can turn into a real hassle before you know it. You can trust MakerGeeks.com, we are a real US based company that stands behind everything we sell. We have been in the retail business for nearly 15 years now and know how to keep a happy client!

  • We service what we sell 100% in house, if you have an issue we'll help you solve it no problem!
  • MakerGeeks.com is located in the USA which means if you are here state-side you won't have to pay for taxes, import duty or shipping... it's all FREE.
  • At over half the cost of a MakerBot we have a great price on a machine that will keep you printing for many years to come!
  • We print with the same printers we sell - we 3D print A LOT here, north of 100,000 printing hours every year... so we know how to get a 3D printer up and running right, and running fast for you!
  • We stock a full line of spare and replacement parts in house and ready to ship today! (click here to see our 3D Printer Parts)
  • We are 3D Printing Geeks and really enjoy helping new clients get their feet wet and start enjoying this amazing technology... once you get a 3D printer beware, you'll be hooked!!


    The Duplicator 4X is our first dedicated 1.75 mm filament extruder. This extruder was designed from scratch, and contains a number of custom manufactured parts. We’ve learned a lot over our past extruder designs, and incorporated a lot of those lessons here: that’s why it’s smaller, lighter, and faster to build. And since it’s designed from the ground up for 1.75 mm filament, it’s light-years ahead of past designs in small-filament reliability.

    The layer alignment is much better which results in nicer prints and higher resolution; 100 micron/inch.

    We’ve completely overhauled the drive system to give the optimum positioning accuracy. The entire system has been upgraded to sturdy 3/8″ diameter linear shafting. This is probably overkill, but you can trust that the axes will be sturdy. We’ve also switched to self-aligning, sintered stainless steel bearings. These are very forgiving to DIY assembly and provide a nice, smooth motion on the steel shafts. We’ve completely replaced the Z axis with a stepper driven, cantilevered stage. Guided by two of the linear shafts, this completely eliminates any Z wobble and results in nicely aligned layers. Using a high-angle lead screw, we were able to increase the speed of the Z axis from 150mm/minute to 1,000mm/minute. This means the layer changes are almost completely imperceptible.

    Connect over USB and hit print the machine will calibrate itself and start printing.

    The new electronics have been designed to make the printing experience easier than ever. The Duplicator 3D printers are a one connection deal to your computer via a standard USB cable thanks to a USB chip on the motherboard. We’ve also added full end stop support so that you never need to touch the XYZ axes ever again. When you hit print, the machine will automatically home itself, heat up, and begin printing. All you have to do is sit back and relax while your Duplicator 3D printer does all the work - or if you don't want to have to have your computer tied up while printing you can always print with a SD card since the Duplicator comes standard with a SD Card reader and LCD Screen. The all new Duplicator 4X is such a solid machine, from a hobby machine to starting a business to using one in your lab I know you'll be very pleased with a Duplicator 4X printer - I have anywhere from 4 to 6 Duplicator 3D Printers running here at the shop nearly 24/7 and we are very pleased with their reliability and ease of use! Give one a try today, you'll be glad you did! Enjoy!!



    SD or USB Link

    Max Printing Object Size



    5th generation, Mighty-board

    X,Y Axis Positioning Resolution


    X,Y axis max speed


    Z axis positioning resolution


    Z axis max speed



    Product dimension

    320 x 466 x 382 mm | 12.6 x 18.4 x 15 in

    Packing dimension


    Material Support

    ABS, PLA, ECO Flex PLA, Laywoo, LayBrick, Taulman3D Nylon, PET, tGlase... and MORE!!! (anything you see on MakerGeeks.com will print great on this new Duplicator 4X)

    Material Size

    1.75mm wire

    Material size requirement


    Temperature Sensor

    thermocouple temperature sensors

    Printing Object Specification

    Position resolution



    0.1mm -0.4mm

    Vertical Printing Speed

    15cm3 / Hour

    Object Size

    225 x 145 x 150 mm | 8.9 x 5.7 x 5.9 in

    LCD displayer



    Material Type

    ABS, PLA, ECO Flex PLA, Laywoo, LayBrick, Taulman3D Nylon, PET, tGlase... and MORE!!! (anything you see on MakerGeeks.com will print great on this new Duplicator 4X)

    Filament size


    1 Roll Filament weight


    Components Specification

    MK7 + Double Extruder

    1 pc (free upgrade from MakerGeeks to the all new MK9+

    Max temperature


    Printer Dimension

    320 x 466 x 382 mm

    Printer Weight


    Electric Power Supply

    220V / 110V ( Universal power supply, take IEC cable)



    Software Format

    STL, G code

    Operation System

    Windows 7, Vista, Linux, Mac, XP and now Windows 8.1


    GB, CE


    Replicator G and/or MakerWear

    So what is a "Maker Geek" anyway?? Well, urbandictionary.com defines a "MAKER" as: those who love to create things in their spare time (often electronic, often with their own hands) and "GEEK" as: one who becomes extremely excited or enthusiastic about a subject. So, put them together and we think it's the perfect term to describe all us makers out there that have become hooked on 3D printing; and if you are new to 3D printing well then you are in the right place. MakerGeeks.com has more PLA and ABS filament, all sorts of exotic material filaments, 3D printer kits and Ready to Print 3D printers alike; matter of fact best we can tell we stock more variety of 3D printing filament, 3D printers and parts than anyone else!! I'm sure you'll find what you are looking for and a bunch of stuff you didn't even know existed!!

    We are makers just like you and we 3D print A LOT here at the shop, well north of 100,000 printing hours every year... and we use the same PLA filament, ABS Filament and all the 3D printer parts and 3D printers we sell everyday with great results; so we know things that work and things that don't work and we can adjust our manufacturing in real time to make sure that the 3D printing filament you just received is going to work and that new all metal JHEAD you got is still going to be working 1,000 hours down the road... there is a BIG difference between just re-selling something and actually using that part day in and day out and it's a difference I know you'll come to see and appreciate once you are a MakerGeeks.com client!! Give us a try and I believe you'll see great results - you have my word on that!

    We are here to help... Keep Calm and GEEK on @ MakerGeeks.com

    Joshua b Smith
    C.O.G (Chief Operating Geek)

    P.S. - Wanna learn about how we got started... click here to read the MakerGeeks.com Story - "Make Happy!"

    3D Printing Facts, Tips, Tricks & Other Bottom of the Page Nuggets
    from MakerGeeks.com

    What Temperature to 3D Print your Filament at?

    While each 3D Printer is different and you will need to play around with the temps to get the best print here are some starter temps for you; these are all temperature profiles that are verified and confirmed print temps on the MakerGeeks.com 3D Printers (9 different machines from pre-built D3 and D4 to our own DIY custom Reprap printers) with the actual filament we sell to you... so they will get you 99% of the way there!

    195c - 210c
    210c - 215c
    230c - 235c

    175c - Smooth
    210c - Rough

    165c (light colored wood)
    210c (very dark colored wood)

    How do I get my filament to stick and STAY stuck?

    This one is a multi-faceted answer but here are the basics:

    1. Your print bed has to be level!! I mean, spend some time on this one... if it isn't level like a... well... like something that's really level - then your print won't stick and it won't come out looking right.
    2. Next... CLEAN, CLEAN, then RE CLEAN, have a sandwich and a soda-pop and then CLEAN again... use acetone and a lint free towel to make sure your print surface is clean and free from oils and dirt.
    3. If you are having a hard time printing on glass try using some Kapton tape as that will give you a little better stick
    4. If you have a heated print surface... TURN IT ON!! Even when the filament used might not call for it, I always turn on my heat bed (who doesn't like a warm bed!!); even if it's just 40c it will really help. For PLA normally you'll want about 60c and for ABS you'll want 110c
    5. For ABS 3D Printing room temperature really matters... you need to keep your entire build warm; so if you can't print out in a warm room try putting a box over the printer to keep that build area as warm as possible.
    6. Try making "ABS Juice" - just add some scrap ABS filament to a bottle of acetone and let it dissolve and then use that to clean your print surface as normal; the dissolved ABS will give your printer extra STICK OR you can use "Aqua-Net Super Hold" hair spray (must be this brand to work right)... just clean your board as always and then lightly spray the Aqua-Net on the print board and print away (this method is my favorite as it seems to work best for me!)
    7. KEEP trying!! You'll get it and once you do have it dialed in then you have it forever... each printer is different; make sure you make notes of what works and what doesn't for each filament you use and each printer you have. So, in the future when you want to print out that EPIC "Yogi Bear" figurine in MakerGeeks.com Blue you know what to set up your GCODE for.

    What is the main differences between PLA and ABS 3D Printer Filament?

    The main difference between PLA filament and ABS filament is that ABS is produced from fossil fuels and PLA is derived from biological resources, which makes PLA plastic biodegradable. When it comes to 3D printing the key differences between ABS and PLA are:

    • PLA is a rigid liquid and ABS is a crystallized liquid, meaning that when heated ABS transits slowly from a gel to liquid and PLA transits direct from solid to liquid.
    • ABS is more flexible and PLA is more solid, meaning when stressed PLA will snap sooner.
    • PLA is more glossy looking consumable than ABS (see photos when selecting your material).�

    Wow, you have a 1kg spool of filament... SO What! How much actual filament is that??

    Big question of the day is... how long is a spool of 3D Printing Filament!? Hummmmm, I think even Blinky the wise old MakerGeeks.com owl might have a hard time with that question but never fear... we have the answer!!

    1/kg Spool

    PLA 1.75mm

    PLA 3mm

    ABS 1.75mm

    ABS 3mm





    ... and what does that mean to me and you!! Well, check this out... if you are printing with 3.00mm filament for a iPhone case you need about 2,700mm of filament; for a EPIC Starship Enterprize Model you'll need about 12,000mm of 3D Filament and for a full Kossel 3D Printer Kit we normally use about 50,000mm of filament. Another way to look at it according to MakerBot is that 1 spool of 3D Filament produces about 392 full sized chess pieces. Whoa... that's a lot of chess!!


    Don't forget... Print Happy @ MakerGeeks.com
    Now, go tell 5 friends and 3 total strangers that MakerGeeks.com is beyond EPIC!!! (thank you)

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