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MendelMax 1.5 RepRap 3D Printer Kit

MendelMax 1.5 RepRap 3D Printer Kit
$149.95$105.95
Item#:
MendelMax
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MendelMax 1.5 RepRap 3D Printer KitMendelMax 1.5 RepRap 3D Printer Kit

RepRap MendelMax 1.5 Printed Parts Kit

MendelMax (MM) is an Open Source RepRap 3d printer designed by Maxbots in December 2011. It is a true reprap, using printed brackets, but instead of using threaded rod for the structural elements it uses inexpensive aluminum extrusions. This gives a huge increase in rigidity for a minimal extra cost. The required extrusions are available world wide from a variety of suppliers. In addition to greatly increased rigidity, this design is faster to assemble (probably 4 hours for most users), easier to print, has a larger build volume (~215x235x190 if built at the standard dimensions), and is easier to hack on.

Our MakerGeeks.com Kit includes ALL the printed parts you need to build your MendelMax 1.5 RepRap plus we include a Wade Reloaded Extruder at no extra charge!! Don't forget to tell us what color you would like - we have more colors of filament than anyone in the USA so get CRAZY and pick a cool color!!

Here's what ya get....
  • 1x - Wade Reloaded Extruder (a $30+ value FREE from MakerGeeks.com)
  • 1x - Full MendelMax 1.5 kit of printed parts built for LM8UU Bearings
    • Lower Vertex Lower Left x2
    • Lower Vertex Lower Right x2
    • Lower Vertex Upper left x2
    • Lower Vertex Upper right x2
    • Top Vertex X (no logo) x4
    • Y_Motor_Mount x1
    • Y-Idler-mount x1
    • Y-Idler-tensioner x1
    • Z_lower_motor_mount_10mm x2
    • Z_lower_motor_mount_10mm_support_mirrored x2
    • Z_lower_motor_mount_10mm_support_standard x2
    • Z_rod_clasp x4
    • Z_Top_Vertex_10mm x2
    • Y_Rod_Mount x2
    • Y_Rod_Clasp x4
    • Y_Rod_Setting_Jig x1
    • Top_Rod_Jig_70mm x1
    • X-Ends x2
    • X-Carriage w/ motor plate
  • 100% FREE FAST Shipping inside the USA!

Note from the C.O.G (Chief Operating Geek) - please note that this kits includes only the plastics parts - however you can either add in this kit EZ Getting Started Kit and then source your frame parts and nuts and bolts OR we also sell some VERY easy to build and popular ˝everything in one boxţ type kits here:

Prusa i3 Full DIY Package - Everything you need in ONE box!

Mini Kossel Full DIY Package - Everything you need in ONE box!

Prusa Mendel I2 Full DIY Package - Everything you need in ONE box!

MendelMax is based on the Prusa Mendel, and keeps its best parts. The Prusa Mendel kept the frame of the Sells Mendel, but fixed the problems in the X,Y and Z axes. MendelMax 1.0 builds on that by largely keeping the current XYZ axes, but completely redesigning the frame.
In addition to the increased rigidity, the printer is much easier to assemble than a standard Prusa. Even an inexperienced builder should have no trouble building the whole frame in an evening, two at most. And along with the easy assembly comes easy hackability. Almost any part on the bot can be removed with just a few screws, so swapping out literally any part on the bot is now a trivial operation.

The X axis is taken stock from the Prusa Mendel, in fact we don't even specify a specific X axis design, there are several good ones available, including the various vertically-oriented X axis designs that many people are exploring lately. As long as it sticks to the defined standard spacing between the Z rod and the Z leadscrew, it will work fine with MendelMax. We also use the standard Prusa Y design (For version 1.0), though we simplify it just a bit by making it easier to get everything aligned right. Z adds optional thrust bearings to support the weight of the axis (greatly reducing the problems with printed couplers), but this is a purely optional upgrade, and you can easily use the old design if you prefer.

Because MendelMax is primarily defining a new frame design, it is linear-bearing agnostic. I have used both LM8UU's and PTFE bushings and both work just fine. Brass or even printed bushings could be used, though I recommend avoiding the latter for highest reliability.
The current revision as of July 17 2012 shipping as kits from the official MM store is conisidered the MM 1.5+. It uses a linear slide for a Y axis rather than polished rods to give the heaviest axis a smoother motion and seems to have cleaned things up greatly. Also different from earlier models the steppers controlling the Z axis have been moved from the top of the printer to the base.


So what is a "Maker Geek" anyway?? Well, urbandictionary.com defines a "MAKER" as: those who love to create things in their spare time (often electronic, often with their own hands) and "GEEK" as: one who becomes extremely excited or enthusiastic about a subject. So, put them together and we think it's the perfect term to describe all us makers out there that have become hooked on 3D printing; and if you are new to 3D printing well then you are in the right place. MakerGeeks.com has more PLA and ABS filament, all sorts of exotic material filaments, 3D printer kits and Ready to Print 3D printers alike; matter of fact best we can tell we stock more variety of 3D printing filament, 3D printers and parts than anyone else!! I'm sure you'll find what you are looking for and a bunch of stuff you didn't even know existed!!

We are makers just like you and we 3D print A LOT here at the shop, well north of 100,000 printing hours every year... and we use the same PLA filament, ABS Filament and all the 3D printer parts and 3D printers we sell everyday with great results; so we know things that work and things that don't work and we can adjust our manufacturing in real time to make sure that the 3D printing filament you just received is going to work and that new all metal JHEAD you got is still going to be working 1,000 hours down the road... there is a BIG difference between just re-selling something and actually using that part day in and day out and it's a difference I know you'll come to see and appreciate once you are a MakerGeeks.com client!! Give us a try and I believe you'll see great results - you have my word on that!

We are here to help... Keep Calm and GEEK on @ MakerGeeks.com

Joshua b Smith
C.O.G (Chief Operating Geek)

P.S. - Wanna learn about how we got started... click here to read the MakerGeeks.com Story - "Make Happy!"


3D Printing Facts, Tips, Tricks & Other Bottom of the Page Nuggets
from MakerGeeks.com

What Temperature to 3D Print your Filament at?

While each 3D Printer is different and you will need to play around with the temps to get the best print here are some starter temps for you; these are all temperature profiles that are verified and confirmed print temps on the MakerGeeks.com 3D Printers (9 different machines from pre-built D3 and D4 to our own DIY custom Reprap printers) with the actual filament we sell to you... so they will get you 99% of the way there!

195c - 210c
210c - 215c
230c - 235c
250c

175c - Smooth
210c - Rough

165c (light colored wood)
210c (very dark colored wood)
210c
260c
210c
265c

How do I get my filament to stick and STAY stuck?

This one is a multi-faceted answer but here are the basics:

  1. Your print bed has to be level!! I mean, spend some time on this one... if it isn't level like a... well... like something that's really level - then your print won't stick and it won't come out looking right.
  2. Next... CLEAN, CLEAN, then RE CLEAN, have a sandwich and a soda-pop and then CLEAN again... use acetone and a lint free towel to make sure your print surface is clean and free from oils and dirt.
  3. If you are having a hard time printing on glass try using some Kapton tape as that will give you a little better stick
  4. If you have a heated print surface... TURN IT ON!! Even when the filament used might not call for it, I always turn on my heat bed (who doesn't like a warm bed!!); even if it's just 40c it will really help. For PLA normally you'll want about 60c and for ABS you'll want 110c
  5. For ABS 3D Printing room temperature really matters... you need to keep your entire build warm; so if you can't print out in a warm room try putting a box over the printer to keep that build area as warm as possible.
  6. Try making "ABS Juice" - just add some scrap ABS filament to a bottle of acetone and let it dissolve and then use that to clean your print surface as normal; the dissolved ABS will give your printer extra STICK OR you can use "Aqua-Net Super Hold" hair spray (must be this brand to work right)... just clean your board as always and then lightly spray the Aqua-Net on the print board and print away (this method is my favorite as it seems to work best for me!)
  7. KEEP trying!! You'll get it and once you do have it dialed in then you have it forever... each printer is different; make sure you make notes of what works and what doesn't for each filament you use and each printer you have. So, in the future when you want to print out that EPIC "Yogi Bear" figurine in MakerGeeks.com Blue you know what to set up your GCODE for.

What is the main differences between PLA and ABS 3D Printer Filament?

The main difference between PLA filament and ABS filament is that ABS is produced from fossil fuels and PLA is derived from biological resources, which makes PLA plastic biodegradable. When it comes to 3D printing the key differences between ABS and PLA are:

  • PLA is a rigid liquid and ABS is a crystallized liquid, meaning that when heated ABS transits slowly from a gel to liquid and PLA transits direct from solid to liquid.
  • ABS is more flexible and PLA is more solid, meaning when stressed PLA will snap sooner.
  • PLA is more glossy looking consumable than ABS (see photos when selecting your material).´┐Ż

Wow, you have a 1kg spool of filament... SO What! How much actual filament is that??

Big question of the day is... how long is a spool of 3D Printing Filament!? Hummmmm, I think even Blinky the wise old MakerGeeks.com owl might have a hard time with that question but never fear... we have the answer!!

1/kg Spool

PLA 1.75mm

PLA 3mm

ABS 1.75mm

ABS 3mm

302,000.00mm

120,192.30mm

245,000.00mm

147,732.30mm


... and what does that mean to me and you!! Well, check this out... if you are printing with 3.00mm filament for a iPhone case you need about 2,700mm of filament; for a EPIC Starship Enterprize Model you'll need about 12,000mm of 3D Filament and for a full Kossel 3D Printer Kit we normally use about 50,000mm of filament. Another way to look at it according to MakerBot is that 1 spool of 3D Filament produces about 392 full sized chess pieces. Whoa... that's a lot of chess!!

 


Don't forget... Print Happy @ MakerGeeks.com
Now, go tell 5 friends and 3 total strangers that MakerGeeks.com is beyond EPIC!!! (thank you)

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