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RAMPS 1.4 Smart LCD Controller w/ SD Reader

RAMPS 1.4 Smart LCD Controller w/ SD Reader
$95.95$29.95
Item#:
4124

QTY


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RAMPS 1.4 Smart LCD Controller w/ SD ReaderRAMPS 1.4 Smart LCD Controller w/ SD Reader

RAMPS 1.4 Smart LCD Controller w/ SD Reader from MakerGeeks.com

(info from RepRap.org Wiki) This Smart Controller contains a SD-Card reader, an rotary encoder and a 20 Character x 4 Line LCD display. You can easy connect it to your Ramps board using the "smart adapter" included.

After connecting this panel to your Ramps you don't need your pc any more, the Smart Controller supplies power for your SD card. Further more all actions like calibration, axes movements can be done by just using the rotary encoder on the Smart Controller. Print your 3D designs without PC, just with a g-code design stored on the SD card.







Each MakerGeeks.com RAMPS 1.4 Smart LCD Controller w/ SD Reader Includes:

  • 1 Smart Adapter so you can plug right into your RAMPS 1.4 board
  • 1 Smart Controller with built in SD Card slot
  • 1 set of Ribbon Cables to connect your Smart Controller to your RAMPS board

Here is what you'll need to change in your config files to get your RAMPS 1.4 / Arduino to read from the MakerGeeks.com Smart Controller:

Marlin V1 (new)

In "Configuration.h"
Change line 46 to —#define MOTHERBOARD 33"
Change line 306 to —#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER" (just remove the // at the beginning)
Change line 326 to —#define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel" (just remove the // at the beginning)
Switch over to "Pins.h" and change line 318 to —#define RAMPS_V_1_3" (just remove the // at the beginning)

Upload the firmware, power off the Arduino, connect the panel, reapply power, and everything should work.

Marlin V1 RC2 (old)

Settings for RAMPS1.4 in "Configuration.h" search for "ULTIPANEL" and activate the define (remove the leading "//")
define ULTIPANEL
and
define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
Also change the value on "define MOTHERBOARD" to 33
in "pins.h" go to section for RAMPS configuration (search for "MOTHERBOARD == 33")
//STOP / KILL button
define KILL_PIN 41 //[RAMPS14-SMART-ADAPTER]
//lcd pins
define LCD_PINS_RS 16 //[RAMPS14-SMART-ADAPTER]
define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17 //[RAMPS14-SMART-ADAPTER]
define LCD_PINS_D4 23 //[RAMPS14-SMART-ADAPTER]
define LCD_PINS_D5 25 //[RAMPS14-SMART-ADAPTER]
define LCD_PINS_D6 27 //[RAMPS14-SMART-ADAPTER]
define LCD_PINS_D7 29 //[RAMPS14-SMART-ADAPTER]
//encoder pins
define BTN_EN1 31 //[RAMPS14-SMART-ADAPTER]
define BTN_EN2 33 //[RAMPS14-SMART-ADAPTER]
define BTN_ENC 35 //[RAMPS14-SMART-ADAPTER]
//beeper
define BEEPER 37 //[RAMPS14-SMART-ADAPTER] / 37 = enabled; -1 = dissabled / (if you don't like the beep sound ;-)
//SD card detect pin
define SDCARDDETECT 49 //[RAMPS14-SMART-ADAPTER]

3D Printing Facts, Tips, Tricks & Other Bottom of the Page Nuggets
from MakerGeeks.com

What Temperature to 3D Print your Filament at?

While each 3D Printer is different and you will need to play around with the temps to get the best print here are some starter temps for you; these are all temperature profiles that are verified and confirmed print temps on the MakerGeeks.com 3D Printers (9 different machines from pre-built D3 and D4 to our own DIY custom Reprap printers) with the actual filament we sell to you... so they will get you 99% of the way there!

210c-230c
210c-230c
230c - 235c
250c

175c - Smooth
210c - Rough

165c (light colored wood)
210c (very dark colored wood)
240c - 265c
260c
210c
265c

How do I get my filament to stick and STAY stuck?

This one is a multi-faceted answer but here are the basics:

  1. Your print bed has to be level!! I mean, spend some time on this one... if it isn't level like a... well... like something that's really level - then your print won't stick and it won't come out looking right.
  2. Next... CLEAN, CLEAN, then RE CLEAN, have a sandwich and a soda-pop and then CLEAN again... use acetone and a lint free towel to make sure your print surface is clean and free from oils and dirt.
  3. If you are having a hard time printing on glass try using some Kapton tape as that will give you a little better stick
  4. If you have a heated print surface... TURN IT ON!! Even when the filament used might not call for it, I always turn on my heat bed (who doesn't like a warm bed!!); even if it's just 40c it will really help. For PLA normally you'll want about 60c and for ABS you'll want 110c
  5. For ABS 3D Printing room temperature really matters... you need to keep your entire build warm; so if you can't print out in a warm room try putting a box over the printer to keep that build area as warm as possible.
  6. Try making "ABS Juice" - just add some scrap ABS filament to a bottle of acetone and let it dissolve and then use that to clean your print surface as normal; the dissolved ABS will give your printer extra STICK OR you can use "Aqua-Net Super Hold" hair spray (must be this brand to work right)... just clean your board as always and then lightly spray the Aqua-Net on the print board and print away (this method is my favorite as it seems to work best for me!)
  7. KEEP trying!! You'll get it and once you do have it dialed in then you have it forever... each printer is different; make sure you make notes of what works and what doesn't for each filament you use and each printer you have. So, in the future when you want to print out that EPIC "Yogi Bear" figurine in MakerGeeks.com Blue you know what to set up your GCODE for.

What is the main differences between PLA and ABS 3D Printer Filament?

The main difference between PLA filament and ABS filament is that ABS is produced from fossil fuels and PLA is derived from biological resources, which makes PLA plastic biodegradable. Check out this 3D Printing Filament Impact Test -- PLA vs ABS vs PETG vs Sledgehammer (click here to watch the videos)!! When it comes to 3D printing the key differences between ABS and PLA are:

  • PLA is a rigid liquid and ABS is a crystallized liquid, meaning that when heated ABS transits slowly from a gel to liquid and PLA transits direct from solid to liquid.
  • ABS is more flexible and PLA is more solid, meaning when stressed PLA will snap sooner.
  • PLA is more glossy looking consumable than ABS (see photos when selecting your material).�

Wow, you have a 1kg spool of filament... SO What! How much actual filament is that??

Big question of the day is... how long is a spool of 3D Printing Filament!? Hummmmm, I think even Blinky the wise old MakerGeeks.com owl might have a hard time with that question but never fear... we have the answer!!

1/kg Spool

PLA 1.75mm

PLA 3mm

ABS 1.75mm

ABS 3mm

302,000.00mm

120,192.30mm

245,000.00mm

147,732.30mm


... and what does that mean to me and you!! Well, check this out... if you are printing with 3.00mm filament for a iPhone case you need about 2,700mm of filament; for a EPIC Starship Enterprize Model you'll need about 12,000mm of 3D Filament and for a full Kossel 3D Printer Kit we normally use about 50,000mm of filament. Another way to look at it according to MakerBot is that 1 spool of 3D Filament produces about 392 full sized chess pieces. Whoa... that's a lot of chess!!

 


Don't forget... Print Happy @ MakerGeeks.com
Now, go tell 5 friends and 3 total strangers that MakerGeeks.com is beyond EPIC!!! (thank you)

3D Printing Filament MSDS Sheets

Maker Geeks Manufacturing, Inc. is located in beautiful Springfield, MO and is one of the first and only large scale producers of 3D printer filament in the USA ....we want to make sure you have all the data you need to safely use our products. A lot of time and love go into each spool that our tradesmen make here at our plant and we hope you enjoy  and make something really cool with your new Maker Filament!!

 
   

Maker Series ABS 3D Printer Filament - MSDS (click here for PDF)

   

Maker Series PLA 3D Printer Filament - MSDS (click here for PDF)

   

Maker Series PETG 3D Printer Filament - MSDS (click here for PDF)

   

Crystal Series PLA 3D Printer Filament - MSDS (click here for PDF)

   

Crystal Series PETG 3D Printer Filament - MSDS (click here for PDF)

 













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Maker Geeks Manufacturing Has Made & Sold over 500,000lbs of 3D Printer Filament and Counting - Get your share today!